Even though San Antonio is one of the top 20 largest cities in the US, it doesn't feel big. It's big in it's sprawl - the cities limits are nearly forty miles across! (is this true?) The downtown is different as well. There is an immediately noticeable lack of a visible business district. I saw three portions of downtown: The Alamo and its surrounding tacky stores, gift shops, and "museums", a really cool old shopping district on Houston St. that was one empty store after another, and the very popular and ultra-touristy river walk area. The river walk is moslty mediocre food at prices a couple of dollars higher than elsewhere.
I didn't get to check out much of San Antonio, but the King William and Southtown districts were definitely the coolest. If you're staying downtown, i recommend walking. The architecture is not as nice as New Orleans, but is in that direction. But the plants and especially the flowers are the real draw.
Headed south on S. Alamo, not even a half mile from the center of town there were much better places to eat. The food was better, the prices were better, and you were eating with locals instead of gaudy t-shirted tourists. In a short period, between St. Mary's and Probandt, you'll find King Willie's Ribs, Tito's Mexican (they make everything themselves on the premises), China Latina, the Church Bistro and Theatre, and, on the south side of the Blue Star Art Space, the Blue Star Brewpub (and they rent bicycles too!) Just around the corner, headed south on Probandt is La Tuna, half biker-bar, half outdoor grill, and it almost feels like it should be on a beach somewhere. Both buildings are all corrugated metal, and the most interesting thing is the gravel outdoor seating area isn't gravel. You notice when you step on it that it makes an unexpected crunch: It's hundreds of thousands of bottle caps!
Mad Hatter's and the Guenther House Mill Restaurant and Museum.
The Market Christina was talking about.
There are plenty of other districts and places to eat, but in the short time that i was there, it was clear that downtown wasn't the place to be. Although ultimately its just a damned mall, i would like to see the Alamo Quarry Market: A shopping mall built into the hull of a cement factory and quarry. The world doesn't need any more shopping centres, but at least this one seems like it might be interesting. I didn't get a chance to go this trip, but if shopping is on your list, i'd check out this mall before the others.
I think that you can get these great "Keep San Antonio Lame" stickers at this website.
