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I was in Chamonix for the first time in August 2001, after 15 years of wanting to go. Even though it was a very touristy month, I was still impressed. It's a beautiful town, a bit uglier for all the tourists and tourist shops, but still has some quaintness to it. The hiking is fantastic. You can buy guide books at all of the book stores. To do anything more serious, there is an association of mountain guides that offers tours and instruction in almost anything alpine. Glacier walks, climbs and much more. The shortest trips are full day, and they have multi-day tours that go over Mont Blanc into Italy. There were so many Brits there, I couldn't believe it. I met mostly Brits, some Swedish, and hardly any French.

I have a scanned map of downtown, but it's not very useable in this form. There is also a mountain bike guide to the valley. I took one panorama of downtown and a little of the cloud capped mountains: (you'll need QuickTime viewer, free from Apple)
    Chamonix panorama (very large, 1.9 MB)

If you want to learn some French, check out my French phrase guides.

I checked my e-mail at the CyBar, which also can accept mail for people that are there just seasonally.
81 rue des Maulins, Chamonix
tel.: 04 50 53 69 70

Right across the street is Munchie 'cuisine et bar'. Swedish owned restaurant with good, creative dishes with a lot of choices for vegetarians.
87 rue des Maulins, Chamonix

I stayed at the Hotel Gustavia. The staff was very friendly and the prices were reasonable.
272, av. Michel Croz, 74400 Chamonix (It's right across from the train station)
tel.: 04 50 53 00 31
fax.: 04 50 55 86 39
www.hotel-gustavia.com
hotel@hotel-gustavia.com
I paid under 900,000 FF (under 150) for two nights with breakfast